Istanbul – A 5 day journey across the fortress city.

Napoleon once famously stated ‘If the world was a single state, Istanbul would be the capital’. Napoleon’s praise for the city is a reflection of what millions think of this spectacular city today once they have made the visit.

Turkey is strategically based between three continents (Europe, Africa and Arabia & Asia), whilst also sharing the Mediterranean Sea, Aegean and Black sea. History teaches us that Istanbul has been a military and economical fortress for some of the mightiest empires in history. The Roman Empire, Byzantines and the Ottomans have used Istanbul as their hub and have profited hugely from this city in invading other territories. Whosoever, holds the key to the Bosphurus, owns the world. Constantinople (Istanbul) was the second capital of the mighty Roman Empire.

Each empire has left its mark on this great city. The Roman presence over the city is quite evident; the remnants of Roman cobbled roads, temples and churches can be found across city. However, the Ottoman influence in the past 500 years has left its own mark on the city.

The city of Istanbul city sits at the bed of the Bosphurus, with the river separating Istanbul across two continents, Europe and Asia. The only city in the world to be separated by two continents. A 20-minute boat trip from Eminonu Station takes you from Europe Istanbul to Asia Istanbul. A single fair will cost 7 liras which is close to 1 British pounds. The city is also known for the 7 hills which sits within the walls of the city, with each hill representing a famous mosque, university or other historical structure. Very similar to Rome.

Sultan Ahmet Mosque:
Referred to as the Blue mosque. Completed in 16th Century by Sultan Ahmet, the sultan ordered the making of the mosque to reassert Ottoman dominance across the city of Istanbul. The mosque imposes itself across the hills of Istanbul and is considered the most iconic sight of Turkey. The interior design  is of carefully designed Islamic art across the ceiling and walls, the walls naturally light up giving it a blue effect. The mosque itself has 5 domes and 6 minarets which covers the outer structure of the mosque. The only other mosque with more minarets is the holy mosque in Makkah. Opposite the Sultan Ahmet sits the Hagia Sophia.

This may sound cliché; my hotel was situated within a two-minute walk from the blue mosque. Our route to the blue mosque involved us passing through Arasta Bazaar. The Arasta bazaar is a parade of 40 picturesque shops consisting of Turkish sweet shops, spice stores, traditional Turkish cafes, clothes and souvenirs shops. The Bazar itself was previously a horse stable for Ottoman Horses.

Hagia Sophia:
Upon leaving the Sultan Ahmet Mosque a gate separates you from the court yard which leads to the Hagia Sophia (approximately a two-minute mosque). The residential court yard is used to soak-up some of the breath-taking views of the two mosques whilst also presenting you the opportunity to take some fantastic shots of both mosques. Istanbul is a city covered with mysticism but you can genuinely feel a positive energy between both mosques. Was it a hallucination or the placebo effect in full force?

With its four minarets and its huge dome that covers the circumference of the building. The Hagia Sophia demands it presence to its equal, Sultan Ahmet mosque. Much simpler in its design compared to Sultan Ahmet mosque; however, still an amazing sight.

Created in 300 BC, the Hagia Sophia was initially an Eastern-Orthodox church. However, centuries later, the Orthodox church converted to a Cathedral; several centuries later under the rule of the Ottoman’s, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque.

Roof not a Dome?
Up until the 16th century, the Hagia Sophia was a traditional medieval European church. However, the Ottomans converted the roof in to a dome and gave its own Ottoman identity.

Neither a mosque or church…
The founder father of the Republic of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Attarturk, ordered the Hagia Sophia to be preserved as a museum rather than a place of worship. Christianity, Islam or Secularism take your pick?

Once you enter the grand hall of the mosque, centuries of Christ-o-Islamic history can be felt in every slab, brick, art, colour and architecture which decorates the two-tiered gallery of worship. Several domes are embossed across the ceiling with fine Islamic art; at the foot of the dome, a perfectly drawn picture of the Virgin and Child is drawn. Other such pictures of baby Christ and the Virgin Mary can be found on the second floor. The corner of each pillar is covered by huge round tablets detailing the name of Allah(SWT), Muhammad (PBUH) and his Sahabas (apostles). The colours of all the ceilings were crowned in gold, giving it a strong sense of royalty across the mosque. One could imagine that the sultan and his closes advisors would have been regular visitors during their rule.

The walk way leading to the second floor takes you back a few centuries. Dark walk ways lit with the smallest flames and huge pebbled stones on all fours greeting you to the second floor. The second-tier gallery brings you closer to the art work so that you can really appreciate the artist craftsmanship. Views of the Blue Mosque can be seen through the mini-windows that are perfectly positioned opposite Sultan Ahmet mosque.

Top Kapi Palace Museum:

Top Kapi Castle was the home of the Sultan and head-quarters of the Ottoman government. A lot of the Ottoman Empire and it overseas territories would have been discussed within the confines of these walls. The Castle is beautifully designed from the palace quarters, gardens and court yards. A lot of detail has gone in to designing this grandeur palace. A grand gate guards you from the palace. Before the guarded gates were to detract intruders, now the guarded gates are used to stop people entering who don’t have tickets.

A lot of the palace displays where the Sultan and his governors would spend most of their days. There are also building displaying the history of the Ottomans; art, fine weaponry and Islamic relics.

There is a huge Sufi influence in Turkey and there is no exception to Istanbul. There is a demand for keeping relics. A lot of people buy in to some of the relics on display but I just couldn’t get my head around crying, seeing an alleged staff that belonged to the prophet Musa (PBUH), was it really his staff. Is the staff more important or his word?

Grand Bazar

Two or Three tram stops from the Sultan Ahmet leads you to the Grand Bazaar. One of the largest and oldest opened markets in the world. The Grand Bazar has over 4000 shops covering across 61 streets. A lot of the architectural design has been preserved and it has the presence of a place which serves its place in history. Everything and anything can be brought in the Grand Bazaar. Rich in colour sulked up in every day Turkish trade, with over 500, 000 visitors a day, the overwhelming nature of the market can easily make you spend hours exploring.

With loads of roads, rows and isles (little and small) within the market, it is very easy to get lost in the Bazaar. Once you are lost it can feel like a mirage, all the shops and isles can look the same, even the most vigilant have fallen victim to loosing themselves within the confines market.

*If you get a chance, try to visit the mosque within the bazaar, am sure there are more than a couple. One mosque I came across, had stairs leaning out in to the market, supporting a small hut with a mic. I saw a man skilfully making his way up the steps, he turned out to be the Muadhim (caller for prayer), he sounded out the Adhaan (call for prayer). There was another small unassuming stair’s next to the Muadhim’s stage, the narrow steps lead to a spacious two-tiered mosque.

Spice Bazar

The Spice Bazar AKA the Egyptian market is adjacent to the Grand Bazaar. Not as big as the grand bazaar. However, the columns carefully shaped arches, each symmetrical to the other really spaces out the market. The coloured chandeliers along with the light, really gives the bazar a radiant feel. Each bazaar has its own character even though the same merchandise is being sold across all shops. Turkish Delight displayed across the back walls covering most colours of the colour spectrum. Whilst the front of the stores is covered by spices, pretty balls of Jasmine and dried coloured flowers. The distinct smell of the bazaar can effortlessly make you hallucinate whilst also making your wallet lighter.

Golata Towers

Golata Towers is practically a huge lighthouse currently aged 600-year-old. In all honesty, the brick work and roofing of the tower is spectacular. Sitting at a prominent hill top, Golata Tower imposes itself over the city, at the time it was the tallest structure in Istanbul. The purpose of the towers, was to safeguard the city of incoming threats through land and water. Most definitely worth a visit once you make it to the top. A fantastic panoramic view of the city with a restaurant inside so you can relax whilst taking in the view.

Taksim Square

Taksim square is the equivalent to Bond Street. If your missing London and are fed up of eating the local food, Taksim Square is the place. A tourist hotspot, all the retail outlets are at your peril and so are all the food chains and fancy hotels. Like most other countries outside of London most recognisable brands are considerably cheaper. I never managed to visit Taksim Square during the night, however, I was told that there are some fantastic roof top restaurants to visit. The Old tram system still runs through the city. Very similar to vintage trams which run through Lisbon. I

Food:

Now there’s a mix response in respect to Turkish food. Some people absolutely love the food and others who did not like it at all. I personally think the food lacked flavour and spices. However, the fresh fish served up well, the prices were extremely fair in accordance to the portion size. I will be sticking to my local Turkish, Istanbul next to Tooting Bec. Fantastic food with great service. Deserves a visit

1. Meshur Eminonu Balik

Am assuming this must mean open boat fish restaurant. Well in any case, they serve a variety of fresh fish baps, which extremely tasty. I personally requested more onions and doused it with lemons. Worth a visit. Right next to Golata Bridge, not too far from Eminonu Station.

      2.Golata Bridge Restaurants

Golata Bridge has several restaurants all which serve good fish dishes. In all honesty you have to be a terrible cook to mess up a fish dish. Nevertheless, all the restaurant on Golata bridge serve the same food. Different name, same food!!

People:
Like with major cities across the world. The people are hit and miss but it would be unfair to say that the people of Istanbul represent the whole of Turkey. Some people were extremely pleasant and others who were not as pleasant.

Sufism:
Turkey is heavily influenced by Sufism; a lot art and design is Sufi inspired. Quite often tour guides will mention that the architecture of mosques and buildings, were artist and engineers inspired by Sufism. Most of the mosques are full of tombs of ‘saints’, Allah (SWT) knows best, avoid the grave worshipping as this is shirk.

Animal Friendly:

If you are an Ailurophile (cat lovers), then Istanbul is the city crying out for you. It is impossible to not spot cats in Istanbul. There are thousands walking, climbing, running and sleeping everywhere. Allhumdulilah all the cats were well fed and are extremely human friendly. The dogs are also equally treated to the same privilege.

Other recommendations:
Suleymeniye Mosque – Beautiful mosque with beautiful overseeing the Grand Bazaar and the Bosphorus River Boat tour.
Rumeli Hisari Fort – First fort which was erected by the Ottomans.
Ortakoy Mosque- A beautiful mosque on the banks of the Bosphurus. A cab journey is required.

Tips:
Keep hold of a wireless mobile charger
Walking Trainers as there is loads of walking involved
Haggle especially with the cabs always bargain 10 liras less. Uber is no longer available